|
Gardecorps,
1250
Detail
of Maciejowski Bible
|
Detail of Folio 16 Recto
plate 108
The Gardecorp(e)s is a
13th century cape or coat used for foul weather.
Many books and online
sources state the garment was used in foul weather by both men and women
but they also state it was developed in the early 14th century (1300+). it
is shown here in a 1250 manuscript [the Maciejowski bible, plates made in
France circa 1250] on two male figures, one with an unattached hood and
the other [with the ax] showing the slits that allowed the arms to pass
through for warmer weather or fashion.
Dr David Nicolle states that
the Gardecorps was a weatherproof hooded garment of heavy woolen fabric.
[Warrior Series, Osprey #18]
|
|
I feel that this garment
was indeed made of tight woven wool, possibly lined with white linen,
without buttons [as shown above] with option slits up front for
walking or possible horse riding and the slits below the sleeves in
the arm-pit area to allow the arms to pass through. Having the slits
on the outside of the arms over the shoulder area as I have seen
illustrated elsewhere would allow the weather to get into the garment,
both rain and cold winds. I feel that the slit was always present
under the arm area where the seam of the garment would be situated.
[Bouchet, 1966- Bouchet, F., Écriture
et réécriture dans le Meliador de Froissart. De la quête du
romanesque à la conscience du roman, thèse de maîtrise de lettres
modernes, sous la direction de Mme Danielle Regnier-Bohler,
Université de Paris III Sorbonne-Nouvelle / École normale
supérieure de Fontenay-aux-Roses, 1986.]
Here are pictures and
ideas I have surmised from studying the Maciejowski Bible -Old
Testament Miniatures- and talking to other folks in the SCA. |
|
 1
|
1
<<<To the left is a close up of the Gardecorps showing most
notably the small button or brooch-pin that pulls the neck flap tight
across the throat. Also seen is a good detail of the underarm's V
shaped opening and how the material lays over or behind the man's arm.
|
2
|
|
2 >>>To the
right are two figures, one sitting, the other standing. The sitting
figure has the neck flap on his Gardecorps. The standing figure shows
the typical length of the Gardecorps. Upon closer inspection, you can
see what appears to be a lining of possible animal pelts inside like
ermine or rabbit[?].
|
|
 3
|
3
<<< Another Gardecorps, full length, neck flap, split to the
waist in front. Notice the gloves in his hands and the length of the
cuffs. Again what appears to be cross stitching on the lining inside.
|
4
|
|
4 >>>Right. We have some men [Gabeonites] down on their luck <folio
10 verso 75>. The front male figure shows his Gardecorps allot shorter
than previous pictures, though this may be an artist's interpretation of
poverty. Notice the wide belled sleeve and how it appears to be only elbow
length. Also, I found that the hood is the same color as the main garment, which
is almost always a different color in most of the other pictures. Is perhaps,
this hood attached? Again, this may be artistic license to make the characters
more Oriental or Foreign to the main themed characters.
|
|
 5
|
5
<<< Left. A full view of the Gardecorps. This one appears not
to have the front slit, possible a middle class person or a design
meant for walking and not riding? Notice the small gathers at the top
of the sleeve. Perhaps this sleeve is sew onto the main tunic? |
 6
|
|
6 >>> Right. One
of the few views of a Gardecorps actually belted at the waist, short
sleeved and short to the knee. Perhaps the average man wore them
shorter than the knights or courtly folks in other panels. This is
from a panel of herders.
|
7
Below: Detail of
flap and button
|
|
